Jeroboams - En Primeur Bordeaux 2010

Neil Sommerfelt MW – Vintage Report

Key Vintage conditions & wine styles

Apart from a proportion of the Merlot vines, in particular, suffering from inclement weather at flowering in June and causing a reduced ‘setting’ of fruit, the summer of 2010 was marked by drought conditions, being remarkably dry throughout July and August ( drier, even, than 2005). Overall, the summer and autumn of 2010 were drier, but less hot(except in July) than in both 2009 and 2005. The nights, though were significantly cooler, thus helping to preserve the essential acidity and freshness – so much a part of the 2010s, both reds and whites.

Grape skins were thick with the resulting volume of juice at harvest greatly reduced by these drought conditions. Estimates vary, but in many places yields are down by as much as 20-30% !  As a result the red wines, in particular, have high levels of all elements – colour, fruit, tannin, alcohol as well as acidity. The best whites retained plenty of freshness and vigour alongside wonderfully ripe fruit.

Overall, 2010 will be compared alongside its immediate predecessor, but to claim definitively which is superior, only time will tell. However, like 2009, 2010 has clearly produced some very fine wines indeed, but of a style that is very different from that of the earlier year. Both may have yielded wines of big stature and weight , the 2009s being generally rounder and more immediately flattering, whereas the 2010s are more muscular yet show more vibrancy. A fascinating side by side comparison of two distinct quality expressions of nature’s viticultural bounty!

Red wines

Main characteristics:

Wonderful ripeness allied to freshness and precision
High tannins, high acidity and high alcohol
Firm structure and powerful
Many are wonderfully fragrant.
Should age well.
Similar to 2005 maybe?
There is quality to be discovered at all price levels

Dry white wines

Main characteristics:

Fine freshness and vibrancy
Less rich than 2009
Fine-tuned expressions, aromatic

Sweet white wines

Main characteristics:

Less dense and opulent than the superb, heavyweight 2009s
Much charm. Expressive and poised
Freshness and vitality, more ‘  pleasurably drinkable’ maybe than the very rich 2009s?
Plenty of botrytis, the most part of which arrived late in the ripening season
Plenty of richness and sweetness, but with fine balance
Will be ready to drink early or will reward cellaring