Jeroboams - En Primeur Bordeaux 2011

Summer

Early véraison as well, in July, accompanied by major water stress.

During a “normal” year in Bordeaux (with a relatively wet winter and spring), a hot, dry month of July is conducive to both a certain degree of water stress and a halt to vine growth at véraison. This is the third most important factor for a great vintage. However, by early July it was clear that the weather in 2011 had been anything but “normal” since late winter. Earnestly hoped for as a general rule, the prospect of a “usual” month of July raised fears in 2011, due to doubts concerning the vines’ ability to cope, in light of the extreme drought conditions they had already experienced.

As it turned out, other than the first week of July when temperatures exceeded 30°C, the rest of the month was not hot (figure 6 and table V). Maximum temperatures were 1.6°C below average and respectively 3.4 and 2.3°C less than in 2010 and 2009. Total sunshine ended up being below average: 200 hours as compared to 281 in 2010, 271 in 2009, and an average of 243 from 1971-2001. July 2011 was cooler and less sunny than usual, with slightly above average precipitation, but much more than in July 2008 and 2005. The Pessac-Léognan, Graves, and Sauternes regions received much more rainfall than the Médoc and Saint-Emilion (figure 6).

Colour change started on about the 10th of July under somewhat cooler conditions, due to light showers on the 8th and 9th.

On all good terroirs, vine growth had already come to a halt about two weeks earlier due to considerable water stress. This stress was unquestionably excessive for Merlot on the driest soils (gravel and sand) as well as young vines, which suffered from defoliation and blocked growth. With these notable exceptions, the third condition for a good red wine vintage in Bordeaux was thus satisfied.

Mid-véraison occurred two weeks ahead of time, just like flowering, on about the 23rd of July. The former was nevertheless much more spread out, and lasted until the 10th of August. Véraison in bunches that had been burned in late June did not go well and many berries remained green or pink. During green harvesting, it was essential to remove these “harlequin bunches” at all costs.

Slow, uneven ripening of red wine grapes during a slightly warmer than average, but much more rainy month of August than usual, followed by a particularly hot, dry September.

The month of August was somewhat warmer than average (table V), but with relatively low minimum temperatures during the second week. August was also much wetter than usual, especially during the first week and on the 23rd and 26th (figure 7). With approximately 80 mm compared to 17 mm in 2010, 24 mm in 2009, 14 mm in 2005, and an average of 60 mm from 1971 to 2000, precipitation in August 2011 was close to that in August 2008. Thunder showers in early August at the end of véraison came too late to give new impetus to ripening on certain young vines partly defoliated because of the drought. Their grapes ripened incompletely and with difficulty. August rain on deep, sandy and silty soils swelled the berries and diluted their flavours. This phenomenon was most prevalent in Merlot.

September was hot (table V) and dry (figures 6). A violent hail storm on the 1st of September seriously damaged grapes in part of the Saint-Estèphe appellation. Some 80 mm of rain fell on this “black Thursday”. Consequently, the harvest was moved up in the worst hit plots of Merlot. The rest of the month of September was singularly dry. The cumulative monthly rainfall recorded in Bordeaux-Mérignac was 25 mm compared to the average of 90 mm. Therefore, the fourth Véraison 7 condition for a good red wine vintage, i.e., full ripening of the various varieties thanks to sufficiently dry months of August and September, but without excessive heat, was only partially satisfied.

The picking of grapes for dry white wine began on the 17th of August and finished in early September, i.e. 2 weeks early – in keeping with earliness of flowering and véraison. August weather was conducive to the development of Botrytis cinerea, calling for careful sorting during the harvest. The 2001 white wine must had slightly lower sugar levels, higher acidity, and lower pH than 2010 or 2009. Vibrant, well-integrated acidity, typical of a year with a cool summer, is unusual for an early vintage. In other words, the hottest summers, such as 2003, usually result in early-ripening vintages for dry white wines. These generally do not have good acidity or aromatic expression. In the 2011 vintage, however, the grapes owed their early ripening to a warm spring rather than a hot summer. The relatively cool ripening period made for beautiful acidity and bright aromatics in both Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon on the most suitable terroirs (limestone and clay).

Accompanied by similar worries about the condition of the grapes, the Merlot harvest began on the 5th of September and that of the Cabernets on around the 12th. Fortunately, the warm, dry weather that set in on the 10th of September put a stop to the spread of grey rot, without entirely eliminating the risk of later development. The last Cabernets were picked in the last week of September and the first few days of October. The berries were small and had a high concentration of anthocyanins. Their weight was comparable to 2010 or slightly higher, but lower than in 2009 (figure 8). While the total amount of anthocyanins did not reach the record 2010 levels, it was appreciably higher than in 2009 (figure 9). It is difficult to generalise concerning sugar and acidity levels, as they depended on when the grapes were picked. Sugar levels in Merlot were generally more moderate than in 2009, and especially 2010, whereas those of the Cabernets were comparable to 2010 and slightly higher than in 2009. The acidity in Merlot, similar to 2010, was higher than in 2009, with a lower pH, whereas both acidity and pH were extremely variable in the Cabernets depending on when the grapes were picked. Cabernets picked at the very end of September or the first days of October were harvested more than 70 days after mid-véraison. This “hang time”, as the Californians call it, is usual in the New World, but has never been as long in Bordeaux as it was in 2011. Emile Peynaud castigated estates that, in his opinion, picked too soon, based on the assumption that 50-55 days after mid-véraison should be the maximum in Bordeaux. Past that time, it was generally believed that the grapes underwent a negative transformation that worked against attractive aromas and proper ageing. Other days, other ways… It will nevertheless be interesting to follow the ageing of the 2011s picked at different times.

The taste of the berries, which cannot unfortunately be measured objectively, was the decisive factor in terms of quality. I remember tasting delicious Merlot grapes from clay and limestone soils. However, Merlot grapes from gravel soils were not nearly as good and those from sandy or silty soil were downright disappointing. Most of the Cabernets from gravel or clay-gravel soil were also delicious, as long as the vines had not been defoliated by the spring drought. The Petit Verdot grapes, while not exceptional, were rather good.

The vintage in Sauternes began at the very end of August with a short “cleaning-up” pass in mid-August to remove grapes affected by rot at a time, however, when they were not entirely ripe. There was also a risk of sour rot on light soils and it was necessary to intervene in time to prevent it from spreading. A full-blown wave of very pure noble rot arrived following showers in early September and morning mists during the first ten days of that month that veiled the vineyards in Barsac and Sauternes.. Starting on the 8th of September, temperatures remained at 30°C and above for several days. This brought about extremely rapid concentration, particularly in Barsac. Under these conditions, only a few passes (generally two in Barsac) were necessary to bring in the entire crop from the 5th to the 28th of September, coinciding with particularly hot, dry weather. Such a vigorous burst of noble rot is rare. In forty years of making wine in the region, I have only seen this phenomenon twice, in 2009 and 2011.

Astonishing dry white wines, less even quality for red wines than in 2009 or 2010, but many excellent and great Sauternes and Barsac. The dry white wines have good acidity, concentration, and a long aftertaste, typical of years with a cool summer. It is more difficult to make an overall appraisal of the red wines, which are not homogeneous. Merlot wines from limestone and clay soils are deeply-coloured, concentrated, and beautifully fresh. Certain magnificent Cabernet Francs from the Right Bank provide a perfect counterpoint. 2011 Left Bank wines have good structure thanks to remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon, but volumes were unfortunately low.  The 2011 Sauternes and Barsac are great.